The Japan Expedition. Japan and Around the World

J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding

Series: Political Science and History
BISAC: HIS021000, HIS036040

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Special issue: Resilience in breaking the cycle of children’s environmental health disparities
Edited by I Leslie Rubin, Robert J Geller, Abby Mutic, Benjamin A Gitterman, Nathan Mutic, Wayne Garfinkel, Claire D Coles, Kurt Martinuzzi, and Joav Merrick

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This book is a firsthand account of three visits to the Japanese empire with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo by J. W. Spalding while he was aboard the U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi.
(Imprint: SNOVA)

Preface
Chapter I. Leave the United States—“Old Ironsides” Mississippi—A Man-of-War at Night—Gulf Stream—Music—First Foreign Land—The Washerwomen—Funchal—Its Harbor—Cavalleros—The Wine—A Consul—Nossa Senhora do Monte—The Coral—A Hospital—A Prison—Dago Pauperism—Donna Clementina—Good-by, Madeira

Chapter II. At Sea again—The Canaries—The “Trades,” Incipient and Real—Man-of-War Existence—Drills—Running down the “Trades”—Small-Pox—Christmas that was not Christmas—First General Order issued—Under Steam again—Man Overboard—Crossing the Line—Arrival at the Ocean-Prison—St. Helena—Hot January—Reverberation—Slavers—James’ Town—A View from a Summit—Tomb of the Great Emperor—Jonathan—To Longwood—The New House—Plantation House—A Bust of Napoleon—Departure from St. Helena

Chapter III. Cape of Good Hope—Shadows—Cape Town—Sights in the Street—Drive to Constantia—The Wine—Kaffir War—Botanical—Leave Cape Town—The Birkenhead—Cattle at Sea—Anti-Scorbutic—St. Valentine’s Day, and the “Styx”—The Indian Ocean

Chapter IV. Isle of France—John Bull under a Torrid Sun—Port Louis and its Bazar—Different Races and Religions—In the Country at Mauritius—John Chinaman—Pamplemouses—Paul and Virginia—A Botanical Garden—Reality as well as Romance—Hurricanes—History of the Island—The “22d”—Fruits—Leave Mauritius—Difference of Time

Chapter V. “Light, Ho!”—Ceylon’s Spicy Breezes, and Sir John Mandeville—Point de Galle—Ceylonese Troops—d’honies—The Natives—Walled Town—Sandal Shoon and Mohammedan Temple and School—Greek Slaves in Bronze—Hirsute and Citronella—Priessnitz’ Doings—Pigeon Express—Ceylon Historically—A Siamese Captain—Departure from Point de Galle—Bay of Bengal—Straits of Malacca—Pulo-Penang—The Cleopatra—Letters—Anchor at Singapore—Malay Boats—The East by Anticipation—Junks—Gong-Beating—The Esplanade—Malay Houses—Sago—Hospitals—Joss-House—Prison—Rajah of Johore—Leave Singapore—First of April—Intense Heat—Cathay—Macao-Hong Kong—Salute of Welcome—Oriental Salute

Chapter VI. Macao—The Donna Maria—Cathedrals and Forts—Camoens—An English Missionary—Death of the Governor—Fast and Tanka Boats—Bocca Tigris—Clipper-Ships and Junks—Chartering a Tender—First of May—The Yang-tse-kiang—Agriculture and the Chinese—Shanghai and the Bund—The Missionaries—Sing-Song—Gambling—Dead Beggars—Nautical Dramatics—The Shanghae Races—Shifting the Flag—Supply Ashore—Wreck of a Junk—Bring the Crew of the Junk Aboard—Left for Loo-Choo

Chapter VII. Great Loo-Choo Island—General Orders—Outer Door of the Hermetic Empire—Historic Outline of the Loo-Choo Islands—Approach to them—Loo-Chooan Simplicity—Dress—Bettelheim—Napa—Language—Foreign Graves—Horse-Portage—The Prince Regent—To Sheudi—Feast—International Sentiment—Sheudi-Cyclopean Masonry—“Old Napa”—Bonin Group—Return to Napa—First Visit to Japan—“The Fourth” on the Sea—A Meteor

Chapter VIII. Cipango—Japan an “Unknown Land”—Works on Japan-Kœmpfer—Japanese Mythology—Geography—History—Japanese “John Doe”—Napoleon No. III. of the Mongols—Kublai-Khan—European Intercourse—English Views about the Opening of Japan

Chapter IX. Sounding-Spars—Foogee Yama—Entrance to the Bay of Yedo—Precautionary Measures—Uraga—Troops—“Old Hundred”—Sounding—Yezimon—Gorihama—The Landing—Joust or Tourney—Audience—President’s Letter—Anecdotal—Fortifications—Sounding—Japanese Presents—Costume—Junks—Leave Japan—A Burial at Sea—A Cyclone—Loo-Choo 7

Chapter X. China—The Rebellion—Hong Hospitality—Blenheim Reach—Torrid—Consular Courts—Canton—Feast of the Lanterns—Howqua’s Garden—Sallie Baboos—Cum-sing-Moon—Death of an Officer—Opium Hulks—The Traffic—Effects of Opium—Its Sale—Smuggling—Emperor of Japan Dead—Loss of Boat’s Crew of the Plymouth—The American Commissioner—Around the Walls of Canton—Chance for a Wife—Temple of Honan—Hong Kong

Chapter XI. Leave China for Second Visit to Japan—Formosa—Napa-Keang—A Refugee not a Koszta—Proselyting—Dr. Bettelheim and a Loo-Chooan Sangrado—Coal Dépôt—Sheudi—Cumshaws—Off for the Bay of Yedo—Dangerous Navigation—Snow—Macedonian Ashore Foogee Yama—Bay of Yedo—Where to Negotiate—22d of February—Japanese Boats—Visiters—Japanese at Dinner—Swords—Aversion to the Cross—The Landing—The Commissioners—The Audience—Answer to the President’s Letter—A Japanese Repast—Their Troops—“T’su-bi-ki”—Coal—A Christian Burial in Japan—American Presents—An Ericsson Two Centuries Ago—A Chaplain—Negotiations—Japanese Presents—Athletes—Entertainment of Japanese Commissioners—Signing of the Treaty—Yezimon—Attempt to reach Yedo—The “Happy Despatch”—Emperor in Disguise—Leave Bay of Yedo for Simoda

Chapter XII. Simoda or Lower Field—Surveying—Japanese Spies—Temples—Sintooism—Another Pilgrim’s Progress—A Night’s Lodging—Bargaining—Japanese Women—Indiscriminate Bathing—Turtle Soup—An Adventure—Buddhist Temple—Midnight Visiters—In a Cage—Japanese Epistolarians—A Great Secret—Defences—Foogee Yama

Chapter XIII. Departure for Hakodadi—Ohosima—Printing at Sea—Straits of Sangar—Arrive at Hakodadi—Magnificent Bay—The City—A Stampede—Interview with the Authorities—Arranging the Currency—Purchasing—A 8Large Temple—Bonzes—Worshipping—Order of the Blind—A View from Hakodadi Yama—A Lion Playing Painter—Ni! Ni!—A Fort—Burials from the Vandalia—Japanese and Ethiopics—Arrival of Functionaries—Characteristic Communications—Hakodadi Eggs—Leave Hakodadi—Fog

Chapter XIV. Foogee—Return to Simoda—Additional Regulations—Veneration for Iyeyas—The Dutch at Desima—Japanese Princes and Mercantile Pursuits—Russia a Bugbear—The Currency Question—The Monetary System of Japan—Buoys—Sample of Coal—Stones for the Washington Monument—Taste for Music—Things by Lottery—Japanese Lacquer and Porcelain—Tea—Japanese Game of Chess, or “Sho-ho-ye”—A Second Robinson Crusoe—Leave Japan for China—Macedonian to Keelong and Manilla—Island of Oo—A Strange sail acting strangely—In Napa Roadstead—Man Deservedly killed—His Highness the Prince-Regent—Russian Admiral Pontiatine—Sermons on Shipboard—The Status of Loo-Choo—Compact with Loo-Choo—Boom-a-Laddying with a Broad Pennant—Great Pomp in our Institutions—Farewell to Loo-Choo

Chapter XV. Hong Kong Again—Letters—The Intestine Troubles—Triangulating between Hong-Kong, Macao, and Whampoa—The Rebels—Chinese Fighting—An Emperor’s Proclamation—Preparations for the Departure of the American Opperbevelhebber—Daybook and Ledger Epistolarians—A Title—Protection—A Jollyboat Steamer—Erudition about Columbus, De Gama, and Others—A Letter from His Excellency Perry—Syce Silver Service—More Mercantile Epistolarians and Parvenuism—No Treaty of Commerce with Japan—Name Great among the Heathen—Departure of Opperbevelhebber in the English Mail-Steamer—Mississippi’s Third Visit to Japan—The Last of the “Porpoise”—Arrive at Simoda again—Official Intercourse of Captain Lee with the Authorities—Courtesies—Its-evoos and a Revolver—The Ship Ho-o-maro—Cotton Cloths distributed—Chances of a Trade with Japan—Final Departure from the Country—Supplemental—Exchange of Ratifications of the Treaty—Simoda after an Earthquake—Loss of the Russian Frigate Diana—The Inexorable Laws of Japan—English and French at Nangasaki—The Cruise of the Mississippi around the World

Appendix

Index

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